Sea Shells
SANCTUARY
Once known as the 'Pearl of the Orient', Manila's long-lived nickname suddenly feels newly relevant in fashion's latest obsession with shell bags.
Written by Maria Elise C. Bugge / June 2026

In the Philippines, where the ocean has long shaped local craftsmanship and culture, shells and pearls have always represented a kind of luxury. Not the polished glamour of logos and bling, but something more elegant. Today, these coastal references are being reimagined through a modern lens, appearing everywhere from luxury runways to women's overpacked 23-kilogram vacation suitcases in the form of shell-embellished handbags.
The trend started when Chanel unveiled its Cruise 2026/2027 collection in Biarritz earlier this year. The collection features coastal textures, vintage swim-inspired caps, gold jewelry, and, most notably, shell bags carried down the runway. The show drew attention not only for its seaside glamour, but also for its historical references to Gabrielle Chanel's early years in coastal France, where she opened her couture house in 1915. Some bags featured shell embellishments, while others transformed the shell itself into the actual structure of the accessory. From there, the trend quickly moved from the runway into everyday wardrobes.
More recently, Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Dior, teased the brand's Resort 2027 collection in Los Angeles through an Instagram post captioned "Dior La De-tails." Among the standout accessories was a sculptural nautilus-shell bag that quickly became one of the collection's most talked-about pieces.
Part of the trend's appeal lies in its versatility. Shell bags exist across a wide spectrum, from handmade pieces sold in night markets to luxury runway and high-street interpretations from retailers such as Zara, H&M, and ASOS. Some are polished, while others are bohemian.
For many younger consumers, the appeal lies in the bag's playful feeling. "There is something almost nostalgic about them," says Rebecca Delia, a fashion writer for the Times of Malta. "Do you remember as girls when we used to play mermaid when we were younger? These shell bags bring me straight back to that time. I'm an adult now, but my younger self would love these."
Delia believes the bags offer more than nostalgia alone. They introduce a tactile, earthy quality that feels refreshing in an increasingly fast-paced and digital world. Their organic textures and imperfect shapes add personality to almost any outfit- Yes, even to a simple pair of jeans and a white tank top.
Her observation reflects a broader cultural shift: "In my culture back home in Malta, we are turning back to hats made from palm leaves and accessories featuring red coral," she says. "I think it's becoming more popular because we're tired of fast fashion and plastic."
As conversations surrounding climate change increasingly influence younger generations, fashion's growing fascination with sea-inspired references feels far from accidental. A study by the Walton Family Foundation found that the majority of Gen Z respondents are concerned about environmental issues, particularly ocean health and water pollution. According to the report, 93% believe it is important to protect oceans, lakes, and rivers from pollution, while 66% worry about the well-being of marine life.
Shell bags are typically made either by attaching shells to a base or by shaping a hard frame to resemble shells. Many designs incorporate crochet, hand-carving, beadwork, or other forms of craftsmanship as decorative elements.
As fashion continues to move between minimalism and maximalism, shell bags manage to capture both at once. Shells themselves are timeless, much like pearls, yet their current popularity makes them feel fresh again. The question now is whether they have evolved beyond a passing trend- reflecting fashion's ongoing attraction to craftsmanship, texture, and beauty found beneath the sea.